

| Information For Setting Up Your Freshwater Aquarium Choosing Fish For Your Tank There arc many species of freshwater tropical fish, and many color and form varieties within each species. The best choices for a beginner are peaceful community fish such as those in the tetra, gourami, danio, livebearer, and rasbora groups. The needs of most peaceful community fish are similar enough that several species can live together. On the other hand, semiaggressive or aggressive freshwater fish are more more difficult to raise and limit the diversity of fish you can put into the same tank. They will bite and torment non- aggressive species. See this page for additional information on “Community Fish” The number fish, as well as their full adult size will determine the size of tank you should have. The standard tank will support 1” of fish length for each gallon of water. Overstocking aquariums is a common cause of fish death, because it will lead to fluctuations in water chemistry, resulting in lowered oxygen levels that are too low for many types of fish. It is important to calculate the size of fully grown fish if you get young fish. Your aquarium can quickly become overstocked and fish will die. Many species of fish can grow too large for the standard aquarium and may require cooler, faster running water. Selecting the Type and Size Aquarium Tank Aquarium tanks come in many sizes and shapes, and range from the simple and low-cost to the very elaborate. The standard small tank holds 10 gallons, but a slightly larger tank is easier to maintain because water chemistry will not fluctuate as rapidly in a larger volume of water. A 20- to 30- gallon tank is usually a good size for most needs. Be sure to select a sturdy table or stand on which to place the tank and to position it near an electrical outlet and away from direct sunlight, heaters, and air conditioners. Every tank needs a lid to keep out dust and a light for easy viewing of the fish. If you are not adding live plants, the standard fluorescent lights supplied with most aquarium hoods will be sufficient for viewing your fish. The light should be set on a timer and turned on no more than 12 hours per day, in order to mimic the natural light cycle. If you want to include live aquatic plants in the tank, you will need to purchase a much higher quality light than is typically sold at pet shops. Determining the Air Pump, Heater and Filter To Use All tropical tanks need a heater and filter, and a wide variety of these are available on the market. Air Pump Air pumps and air stones add pretty bubbles but are more decorative than functional. Air pumps can help to add oxygen to the water. If your filter is not the hang-on variety, it may not provide adequate surface turbulence to aerate the water and you may need an air pump. Heater An aquarium heater is necessary in order to maintain the water temperature in the range that most tropical fish prefer, between 76 and 80 F (24.5 to 26.5 C). A fully submersible heater, rather than the kind that clips onto the top edge of the tank, is preferable, as the non-submersible variety will break if it is accidentally dropped into the tank. Filter A filter helps to keep the tank clean, aerate the water, and maintain proper water chemistry. Most filters utilize several filtration methods: mechanical filtration, which removes solids such as dead plants and solid fish waste; chemical filtration, in which activated carbon or another medium removes organic pollutants chemically; and biological filtration, in which beneficial bacteria break down ammonia and nitrite into less harmful substances. The three most common types of filters are those that are submersed entirely in the tank, filters that hang on the back of the tank, and canister filters that are usually housed in a cabinet under the tank. By far the simplest and most user-friendly for children and beginner hobbyists is the hang-on variety, as it is mechanically simple, is easy to access for cleaning, and does not require complicated tubing and plumbing. A hangon filter also provides adequate aeration (eliminating the need for an air pump), provided that it is large enough for the tank and is properly maintained. Tank Maintenance During vacations, a timer and automatic feeder can be used to turn aquarium lights on and off and to feed the fish, but the tank should be checked every five days or so to make sure the equipment is working properly. Aside from vacation care, normal tank maintenance includes changing 20 percent of the water every two weeks, monitoring water chemistry through regular water testing, and basic care and cleaning of aquarium equipment (filter, glass, etc.). As you become more experienced, add live plants to aid in feeding fish and removing waste products. An aquarium with live plants will have a simple food chain, with plants as the primary producers, snails or herbivorous fish as primary consumers, and beneficial bacteria serving as decomposers. Live plants will assist in removing decaying fish waste. A very important cycle in tanks with or without live plants is the nitrogen cycle, a process by which toxins such as ammonia and nitrites (from fish waste and decaying plants) are converted by beneficial bacteria into less toxic nitrates. Plants and animals use the converted nitrogen to grow, thereby completing the cycle. |
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