Information For Setting Up Your Freshwater Aquarium
Choosing Fish For Your Tank

There arc many species of freshwater tropical fish, and many color and form varieties within each
species. The best choices for a beginner are peaceful community fish such as those in the tetra,
gourami, danio, livebearer, and rasbora groups. The needs of most peaceful community fish are
similar enough that several species can live together.

On the other hand, semiaggressive or aggressive freshwater fish are more more difficult to raise
and limit the diversity of fish you can put into the same tank. They will bite and torment non-
aggressive species. See this page for additional information on “
Community Fish

The number fish, as well as their full adult size will determine the size of tank you should have.
The standard tank will support 1” of fish length for each gallon of water.

Overstocking aquariums is a common cause of fish death, because it will lead to fluctuations in
water chemistry, resulting in lowered oxygen levels that are too low for many types of fish.
It is important to calculate the size of fully grown fish if you get young fish. Your aquarium can
quickly become overstocked and fish will die.

Many species of fish can grow too large for the standard aquarium and may require cooler, faster
running water.

Selecting the Type and Size Aquarium Tank
Aquarium tanks come in many sizes and shapes, and range from the simple and low-cost to the very
elaborate. The standard small tank holds 10 gallons, but a slightly larger tank is easier to maintain
because water chemistry will not fluctuate as rapidly in a larger volume of water. A 20- to 30-
gallon tank is usually a good size for most needs. Be sure to select a sturdy table or stand on which
to place the tank and to position it near an electrical outlet and away from direct sunlight, heaters,
and air conditioners.

Every tank needs a lid to keep out dust and a light for easy viewing of the fish. If you are not
adding live plants, the standard fluorescent lights supplied with most aquarium hoods will be
sufficient for viewing your fish. The light should be set on a timer and turned on no more than 12
hours per day, in order to mimic the natural light cycle. If you want to include live aquatic plants in
the tank, you will need to purchase a much higher quality light than is typically sold at pet shops.

Determining the Air Pump, Heater and Filter To Use
All tropical tanks need a heater and filter, and a wide variety of these are available on the market.

Air Pump
Air pumps and air stones add pretty bubbles but are more decorative than functional. Air pumps can
help to add oxygen to the water. If your filter is not the hang-on variety, it may not provide
adequate surface turbulence to aerate the water and you may need an air pump.

Heater
An aquarium heater is necessary in order to maintain the water temperature in the range that
most tropical fish prefer, between 76 and 80 F (24.5 to 26.5 C). A fully submersible heater,
rather than the kind that clips onto the top edge of the tank, is preferable, as the non-submersible
variety will break if it is accidentally dropped into the tank.

Filter
A filter helps to keep the tank clean, aerate the water, and maintain proper water chemistry. Most
filters utilize several filtration methods: mechanical filtration, which removes solids such as dead
plants and solid fish waste; chemical filtration, in which activated carbon or another medium
removes organic pollutants chemically; and biological filtration, in which beneficial bacteria break
down ammonia and nitrite into less harmful substances.

The three most common types of filters are those that are submersed entirely in the tank, filters
that hang on the back of the tank, and canister filters that are usually housed in a cabinet under
the tank. By far the simplest and most user-friendly for children and beginner hobbyists is the
hang-on variety, as it is mechanically simple, is easy to access for cleaning, and does not require
complicated tubing and plumbing. A hangon filter also provides adequate aeration (eliminating the
need for an air pump), provided that it is large enough for the tank and is properly maintained.

Tank Maintenance
During vacations, a timer and automatic feeder can be used to turn aquarium lights on and off and
to feed the fish, but the tank should be checked every five days or so to make sure the equipment
is working properly.

Aside from vacation care, normal tank maintenance includes changing 20 percent of the water
every two weeks, monitoring water chemistry through regular water testing, and basic care and
cleaning of aquarium equipment (filter, glass, etc.).

As you become more experienced, add live plants to aid in feeding fish and removing waste
products. An aquarium with live plants will have a simple food chain, with plants as the primary
producers, snails or herbivorous fish as primary consumers, and beneficial bacteria serving as
decomposers. Live plants will assist in removing decaying fish waste.

A very important cycle in tanks with or without live plants is the nitrogen cycle, a process by which
toxins such as ammonia and nitrites (from fish waste and decaying plants) are converted by
beneficial bacteria into less toxic nitrates. Plants and animals use the converted nitrogen to grow,
thereby completing the cycle.
Freshwater Fish
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